Kyoto is much slower paced than Tokyo. It has a much more traditional feel to it. It’s more like the Japan I pictured in my head (thanks, Hollywood!). We were staying near Nijo Station and Nijo Castle. Our Air BnB there was really nice, albeit really tiny. But we had the whole place to ourselves, which was nice, and a great view of the mountains in the background. It was really near a liquor store, which probably sounds insignificant. Unless you’re an alcoholic. Then it’s probably pretty significant. And now I’m probably going to sound like an alcoholic. But I hadn’t set foot in a proper liquor store in years (see Mom, no need to worry!). Korea’s alcohol selection is fairly limited and insanely expensive if you’re not drinking Korean alcohol. And you mostly buy it at grocery stores and convenience stores. So we spent a good 30-45 minutes just wandering around going, “Look! It’s _______! I haven’t had that in ages. And it’s so cheap!” Except for my sister. She’s was like, “What’s the big deal? I can do this every day but Sunday!” (She lives in Texas.) We were so overwhelmed with choice, that it took us forever to decide what to get. One night we bought some cheap wine and some meat, cheese and bread from the nearby grocery store (because these things are also cheap in Japan but not in Korea) and had it for dinner one night. (It was only one night, Mom. Calm down!) And there was a great little bakery down the street at which we had breakfast every morning. I love good bread. And it’s so hard to find in Korea without sugar on it.
On our first day we headed over to the Silver Temple, which is not actually silver. You should just know that now. The temple itself was not super exciting, but I thought the grounds were really beautiful. It’s also at the beginning of the Philosopher’s Walk, which runs next to a canal and has many temples along the way that you can stop at, if you so desire. We only popped into one – Honen In – which was exceptionally beautiful and eerily empty. We sort of felt like we shouldn’t be there. But it was nice to be able to enjoy a temple without all the crowds of the more popular destinations. We promised our father that we would do much philosophizing on this walk, so of course we had to stop for a photo sesh of our pensiveness. Pics or it didn’t happen! Overall, we enjoyed the walk, but made the fatal mistake of not bringing enough water, because there are not many places to stop along the way for more. And also for taking this trip during the summer, because it was hotter than Hades. I legit thought I was going to pass out and potentially die by the end. Also, when you come to the end of the walk, you are basically in a neighborhood full of houses. So if you’re in desperate need of water and food, much like we were, you are shit out of luck. We started wandering down random streets to try and find a main street, but weren’t having much luck. In the end, a cab driver stopped and told us to get in because he saw that our struggle was that real. He took us back to the Silver Temple, where there are lots of places to get food and water. So if you’re heading to Kyoto and want to do the Philosopher’s Walk, I highly recommend starting where we finished and finishing at the Silver Temple. And bring LOTS of water. Incidentally, we also made our way to the Golden Temple, which is, in fact, gold. The temple itself is quite stunning, but beyond that there’s not much to see.
One day we went to Nijo Castle, which is the first castle I’ve been to that has not only one, but TWO moats. We enjoyed speculating what they might keep in the moats to ward off enemies. I remain confident that they imported alligators. The castle was nice, but we probably only spend about 45 minutes there. We had stuff to do! I will say that the archways at Nijo are gorgeous. They are black with gold fixtures and painted in colors that remind of a hand painted bowl I was given from Russia.
That evening we were trying to find a good sushi spot near Shijo Station. We found a restaurant on Trip Advisor, but unfortunately, so did everybody else. The line was out the door. The reviews were decent, but the prices were more than we were used to paying for sushi in Japan and we were too hungry to wait. So I did a quick Google search and stumbled upon a joint called Musashi Sushi. It had a short wait and good prices. The sushi was so good (and cheap!) that we ended up eating there twice. I felt adventurous and tried a little horse meat sushi. It was…interesting. I would not recommend the mane, which (big shock) comes from the neck where the mane grows. It was
disgusting chewy. But all of the fish sushi was stellar. Near Shijo is a teeny, tiny, little alley called Pontocho. It is an adorable alley lined with restaurants and photo ops. I wanted to pop in one of the restaurants, but they looked too expensive there wasn’t any visible English. So I took a million photos instead. I really enjoyed the Shijo area. In hindsight, we should have stayed there. It is pretty centrally located, and many of the things we wanted to do were there or within walking distance. There’s a small river, and the banks fill up with people in the evening and there are many restaurants with outdoor patios overlooking the water. One alley near the station is famous for geisha sightings. We actually saw one getting out of a car and heading into a restaurant. The juxtaposition of the geisha and the car was pretty interesting. I would have liked to have gotten a photo, but I had read before hand that they don’t care for all of the tourists that act like paparazzi.
Also, while in the Shijo area, we decided to give waygu beef a try. It’s like Kobe beef, but cheaper. Kobe beef comes from Kobe, Japan (near Kyoto) and is supposed to be magical. By some accounts, Kobe cows are fed beer, listen to classical music and get daily massages. I don’t know how much of this is true, but watching this video had me convinced. If you think you’ve had Kobe beef in the States, you probably haven’t. There was a trade embargo or something, and so until very recently you couldn’t get it in the States. Despite tons of restaurants swearing up and down that they serve it. Be wary, people! We really wanted to try the Kobe, but it’s legit, like, $100 a serving. So we opted for the $60 a serving meal. And it was LIFE CHANGING. It was so buttery, melt in your mouth, insanely delicious. I savored every bite. I never wanted the meal to end. They also served us some grilled veg, grilled garlic and a little bit o beef tongue. Yep, you read that right. I kind of tasted like pastrami. I enjoyed it. If you go to Japan, stuff your face with this! You can thank me later.
While researching fabric shops in Kyoto, my sister and I stumbled across a blog that mentioned a 400-year-old needle shop.My sister really wanted to go, so we set out on our scavenger hunt to find it. We were armed with vague directions and a photo of a hallway to turn down. It’s in the Shinkygoku shopping arcade, which feels like a vast labyrinth. We tried to ask for help, but Google’s not so great at translating “400-year-old needle shop.” Eventually we found it by studying the photo for clues (thanks, Crocs display!). Once you go down the hallway, you emerge to find this tiny, wooden house in the middle of a beautiful garden. It looks totally out of place, and you would never know it was there if you didn’t know what you were looking for (and even then, we nearly missed it). We popped in and picked up a few needles, just to be able to say that we’d purchased them at a 400-year-old needle shop, and then carried on with our fabric buying excursion.
One of the places I’d really been looking forward to visiting was Fushimi Inari. It’s orange pillars are so iconic. Upon seeing it in person, it did not disappoint. The pathway leading up to the temple is covered in bright orange arches that are in stark contrast to the surrounding greenery. We only walked about 1/3 of the way to the temple because it was up a hill and, I’m not sure if I’ve mentioned this, REALLY FREAKING HOT. Had it not felt like I was dying, I feel like I could have spent all day exploring this gorgeous temple. Definitely a must do in Kyoto.
One of our other favorite things (I know, so many favorite things. Kyoto is amazing, guys.) was going to Arashiyama. It is a short journey to the outskirts of Kyoto. At one point you transfer from a subway car to an old timey looking rail car. The old timey car takes you to a small station. Upon making your way to the main street, you go left for the monkey park and right for the famous bamboo groves. We opted to do the monkey park first because monkeys. We read online that after you buy your ticket, it’s about a 10 minute walk uphill to get to the monkeys. The lady at the ticket booth told us it would be 20 minutes. Let me tell you, they were both wrong! I would say it took us nearly 45 minutes to get to the top. Uphill. Both ways. It was hotter than the devil with a fever, and guys, I’m not in the best shape. I legit almost started crying because I thought I was never going to make it. I just kept saying to myself, “These monkeys had better be effin cute!” Good news, guys. They were. I got a video of two little baby monkeys playing together. TWO. BABY. MONKEYS. PLAYING. Cute Factor 1000. The monkeys were just chillin. You’d be walking around and look up and suddenly realize that there was one right above your head. I will admit, the first time I saw one in the tree right above me, I did have a bit of a Congo flashback. But these guys were way smaller than the ones in the movie. And didn’t seem to want to kill any people. So there’s that. You couldn’t touch the monkeys, but you could get quite close. We saw a momma monkey breastfeeding her baby and they had both fallen asleep. ALL THE CUTE FACTOR! You could feed the monkeys, but you had to go into a small building that had chicken wire for windows and the monkeys would climb up the outside and stick their hands in the chicken wire and you could give them the peanuts that way. Let me tell you, these monkeys do NOT mess around with their food. They are greedy, impatient little bastards. They will snatch those peanuts right out of your hands! Once we’d gotten our fill of the monkeys, we headed back down the mountain, which was much more pleasant than going up the mountain. We made our way to the bamboo groves, which were really tall, but totally crowded. We were so hot, tired and hungry, I think we spent a total of about 10 minutes there. I wish we’d felt a bit better so we could have explored it more, which is possibly the motto for this trip.
All in all, it was a great trip and we had an amazing time. I much prefer Kyoto to Tokyo (although Tokyo is still a worthwhile destination). If you go to Kyoto, stay near Shijo. Just trust me. Go to Musashi Sushi if you can, and definitely try waygu beef. Shell out for Kobe, if you really feel the need, but waygu is still a game changer. Go see the monkeys, but be prepared to work for it.
If you want to read about our first trip to Japan, click here.
For the first half of this trip, click here.
For more photos, check out my tumblr.